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SQUAMISH CLIMBING Climbs on the Chief The Angel's Crest, 5.10c, 15p |
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The Angel's Crest is a 15 pitch climb that follows a buttress between the steep face of the Sheriff's Badge & the dark, gloomy expanses of the North Gully. The climb is quite varied with some thin face, hand, fist and finger cracks along with some choss. One highlight for me on this route was a section known as the Achrophobes, very little gear but extremely easy slab climbing, where you traverse a knife's edge pinnacle with the Gully on one side (dark, gaping void) and the Sheriff's Badge on the other (light, creepy void). Be ready for anything on this route and bring a rack with a good variety of gear including lots of extendo-slings. Enjoy! |
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Sam & I (left) watching Chongo get started and Sam (right) leading one of the 5.9 pitches about halfway up the route where the exposure starts to get real... |
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We managed to get stuck over night after being behind a slow team & getting off-route: not recommended! We slept (left) on a small ledge until about 5:30 AM and then finished the last three pitches early in the morning. Here I am (right) pulling the final moves of the route about 2000 ft. off the deck! |
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Sam & I on top with Garibaldi in the background and the town of Squamish below
Sam and Peter celebrating on top of the Chief |
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all photos ©2000 Michael Levy |
Thanks to Bob McKay for his hammer and pitons!