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The Stawamus (sleeping) Chief is the centre piece of Squamish climbing with many long free routes up its expansive walls. The Chief is divided into several distinct sections including: The Western Dihedrals, The Bulletheads (climber's campground), The Grand Wall, The Apron, The South Gully, The Sheriff's Badge and the North Gully. The most popular climbs are on the Grand Wall and the Apron. The Grand Wall features long, exposed climbing with the most popular route being the Grand Wall, 5.11c A0, that cuts straight up the middle of the longest, most vertical face on the Chief. The Apron is a bit more laid back in some respects: lots of slab climbing but in many cases very poor, widely spaced protection. The most popular route on the Apron is Deidre, 5.7, 7p that works its way over moderate slabs into an incredible dihedral that continues straight up to Broadway Ledge for about 700ft. A great way to get some elevation without much dificulty. Other notable climbs on the Chief include: Rock On, 5.10a, 6p (South Gully); The Angel's Crest, 5.10c, 15p (North Gully Buttress); Snake, 5.9, 7p (The Apron); Exasperator, 5.10c, 2p (Grand Wall Base). To view a few pictures from some of these climbs, click the thumbnails below...(Angel's Crest 5.10c; Deidre 5.7; Exasperator 5.10c)
all photos ©2000 Michael Levy |
