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My Best Friend's Girlfriend 5.10c/d, 1pa, 5 pitches/1st pitch |
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This project began in the Summer of 1999 when Gary Quiring unearthed the initial crack at the base of Bayne's Peak in Mt. Maxwell Provincial Park. The route is on the longest continuous wall on Bayne's and runs along a crack system and flakes for about 500'. Gary and Sam Ellison began the development by cleaning and leading the first pitch and since then it's been a real group effort to push it to within 100' of the summit. The route is protected mostly with gear including a few fixed pitons; there are a few bolts but only where absolutely necessary. We've all tried to maintain a ground-up approach to keep the climb as pure as possible...News!!! On June 16, 2000, Sam, Peter Mede and myself sauntered up on to the route to try a first ascent of the complete line. Sam had rapped and bolted the fifth pitch earlier this year so that we could make a safe attempt. We all managed to free the first four pitches and then Peter did the first lead of the fifth pitch with only one piece of aid right off the belay...Sam & i had to use the bolt as well but we think it will go free at 5.10d or .11a when it's cleaned up a bit. So, the history of ascents now looks like this: 1st Pitch FA: Sam & Gary; 2nd Pitch FA: Sam & Peter; 3rd Pitch FA: Mike & Sam; 4th Pitch FA: Sam & Mike, FFA: Peter, Sam & Mike; 5th Pitch FA: Peter, Sam & MIke |
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Click a thumbnail to see the picture
1st pitch 2nd Pitch 3rd Pitch FFA 3rd Pitch Sam
4th Pitch FFA 4th Pitch FFA 5th Pitch FA
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