Favourite Climbs

I'm only including climbs that I've led, otherwise this list would grow far too long...all are gear leads, except one (more now), as I prefer the challenge of the gear placements along with the climbing.  Most of my leads are done onsight which makes them more exciting and rewardingfor me.

A classic hand crack that starts about 60' off the deck at the Neat & Cool crag. great for beginners who want a feeling of exposure

An incredible climb for the grade: slab for the first three pitches and then 4 pitches up a dihedral to the top of the Apron on the Chief...has been upgraded to 5.8 in the new guide to keep the crowds down a bit

The quintessential 5.7 hand crack straight up a gorgeous face above Zombie Roof in the Smoke Bluffs Wall area

The most popular start to the Smoke Bluff Connection, Mosquito starts with a thin finger crack, into a layback flake and then to a moderate hand crack to finish

A full rope length pitch from the base to the top of The Starr Wall on the Upper Malamute.  Plenty of good rests and superb gear placements throughout with a spectacular view of Howe Sound all the way up...

The hike to the top of the Smoke Bluffs is worth it to reach this climb.  Superb hand jamming after an unprotected flake to start...about 15' up to your first piece of pro

My first 5.9 lead: bouldery start leads to a 100' classic Bluffs finger crack with lots of good rests and superb gear placements

A finger crack for one pitch up the lower Starr Wall & a second pitch up a layback corner off a fine view ledge.

Incredible finger crack with bomber gear every 3 feet; getting somewhat polished these days due to heavy TR gangs

An overhanging climb with big moves and big holds to match

Mostly moderate climbing (5.8, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.9, 5.7)in the South Gully.  Crux can be creepy if wet: a delicate mantle after traversing out and up from your last piece of gear several feet below...

Long free climb up a buttress that eventually leads up the headwall above the Sheriff's badge.  Incredible exposure on the headwall and a section known as the Acrophobes.

My first J-tree climb and my first J-tree sandbag.  Worth doing just for the view.

Feels more like 5.7 to me...nice moves through a moderate roof up a splitter crack

A friction climb with a huge flake near the beginning.  Bolts + one big piece for the flake and a bit of a runout at the finish

Somewhat offwidth climbing for two pitches to the top of Intersection Rock

Two entertaining pitches that lead to a crux through a huge roof, bypasses, of course.  Several variations exist on the first pitch from 5.6-5.8.

Stemming, jamming, friction, traverse, great gear, great climb !

Hard face moves past a bolt lead to a short but entertaining roof

The best hand jam crack in the Universe?  For it's grade, for sure!

O.K., maybe because it's on home turf and it was my first bolted lead...

5.8 finger crack to a 5.8 fist crack/flake/face pitch to a 5.10a/b corner crack to a 5.10b/c roof/overhanging fist crack to a 5.10c/d overhang/face/offwidth!  Unbelievable exposure & views with no other climbers for miles around!  FA June 16, 2000: Sam Ellison, Mike Levy, Peter Mede

Another FA for me and quite satisfying at that!  A two pitch line on the Cankers crag that has incredible exposure, short cruxes and all around great climbing

One of our newest (10.11.2000) bolted routes on the island and another FA for me!  A steep line to begin with to a good rest to an overhanging section for the last half generating a healthy pump by the end...

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