So, you've never done needlepoint?  You think it's just too hard, too small, too detailed?  Not so!  This page is for you and will help you understand the basics of how to complete our beautiful oriental carpet kits.  I've tried to address needlepoint basics as well as finishing techniques, based upon the feedback of my customers.  If any portion appears confusing to you, please let me know and I will try to further clarify.  These instructions and images are protected by copyright and are not to be reproduced for any purpose without our permission.  The full contents of this page are now included with all of our kits, but the images may be easier to view on our site.

Our kits include either 24 count needlepoint canvas, which has 24 stitches per inch, or 32 count silk gauze which has 32 stitches per inch.  If you choose to use different fabric, be sure that it is an even-weave mesh (has the same number of strands vertically and horizontally).  To calculate your new finished size, refer to the color chart for the number of stitches across and down and divide by the cloth count.  Prepare the canvas before stitching by taping all edges with masking tape to avoid fraying. I use 6-strand DMC embroidery floss for all stitches.  Unless otherwise indicated, our kits should be worked with only two strands of floss for all stitches.  If you wish to change the color scheme, you may wish to lay out the skeins of the new color scheme together and refer to the chart to determine which colors to replace.  If you are working our designs on a larger count canvas (such as 18 count), you may wish to work using three strands of floss.  Similarly, if you are working on 40 count gauze for a 1/24th scale carpet, you will want to use only one strand.  I use a size 24 blunt needle (included with kits).  If you are working your kit on silk gauze, you may find it helpful to use an acid free mounting frame, available from most craft or framing shops to keep the gauze taut while you work. These are usually inexpensive (about $10). If you have difficulty seeing the holes in the silk, wearing dark clothing may help, as will a magnifier.

Each square on the chart represents one stitch.  The center of the chart design is marked with arrows at the top and left of the grid.  Before beginning, identify the center of the fabric by folding it into quarters.  Thread your floss into your needle and come up from the backside of the fabric to the right side.  Leave a half inch tag of floss on the underside and stitch over it to secure in place—never knot the floss (see picture of back side above).

Stitches should be diagonal coming up through the fabric and then down again. The rows are worked from left to right and then from right to left.  For the first row, bring the thread up at "1" on the right side, and work a stitch diagonally over one canvas intersection going down into the canvas at "2".  This is a basic needlepoint "tent stitch".  Bring the needle through the canvas again at "3" to be ready for your next stitch, then stitch diagonally over one canvas intersection going down into the canvas at "4" to complete the second stitch.  The second row is worked from right to left.  The diagonal slope of the stitches will be the same as the previous row but you will work the stitches in the opposite direction.   For the second row, (assuming you ended at "4"-- see picture) come up to the right side at "5" and then down at "6" and so on in the same manner as the first row.

I prefer to work in one color at a time, completing small areas, starting in the center and working outward toward the border(s).  It is best to stitch each color area in the same direction (vertically or horizontally), as changing direction can sometimes be visible in the finished piece.  You will want to try to keep the tension of your stitches even, so that your finished piece is not bumpy, or too tight.  This may take a little practice.  As your length of floss becomes too short to work with, run the thread under several stitches to secure it and then clip it short.  The pictures above show how the design comes together, one color at a time!  You will get excited as you begin to see the design magically appear on your blank canvas!  Don't worry if you make a mistake-- to fix mistakes, unthread your needle and then use the needle to rip out the stitches that will need to be redone.  Be sure to do this carefully so that you do not damage the canvas in the process.

Once all stitching is complete, your design will most likely be crooked.  This is easily correctable by "blocking" your finished project.  Submerge project in cold water without folding or wrinkling it.  Roll project in a clean towel and squeeze tightly to remove excess water.  Place project on a flat board and tack it to the board so that the project is straight and square.  Be sure that you only use tacks on the excess canvas, so that you don't damage all of those stitches!  Allow the project to dry completely over night.  If your piece is still not straight, repeat this process, until you are happy with the results.  Once dry, iron  your carpet on the cotton setting until fabric is free of wrinkles and somewhat stiff.  Trim the edges so that one centimeter of unstitched cloth remains on all sides.  Cut out the corners of the excess canvas so that your project looks like the picture above.

To finish the edges, you will need to learn how to do one more stitch, called a "whip stitch".  the whip stitch is mostly used in plastic canvas for finishing outer edges, or attaching two pieces of canvas together.  Fold over one side of the excess canvas and choose a floss color to go around the edges with-- I usually use the last border color.  Thread your needle, and secure the floss on the back side of your project by running it under a few stitches.  Bring the needle to the corner of the project and then pierce it through two holes of the canvas on top of each other across the fold, securing the excess canvas under the project (see photo above).  Continue whip stitching along the straight edges, adding extra stitches at the corners.  If you intend to hand knot your fringe, you should only whip stitch along the long edges of your project.  If you will glue on fringe, or do not plan to fringe at all, you should whip stitch along all four edges.

To finish the back of the piece and protect your stitches, cut a piece of iron-on fabric interfacing to a size just smaller than your completed piece.  Following the directions on the package, iron the interfacing onto the back of your project.  I usually use the lightest weight interfacing, but you may use a heavier interfacing if you prefer.  I choose the lighter weight because it adds less bulk to the finished carpet.

If you wish to add fringe for a more realistic finished piece, there are two ways to proceed.  To create hand knotted fringe, thread your needle with ecru embroidery floss, using all six strands.  Pierce the canvas on the short edge close to your finished stitches, going from the front of the design, toward the back.  Leave about 1" of floss unsecured toward the finished side.  Come back through the canvas in the next hole, toward the front of the project, forming a loop (see first image above).  Tuck the 1" tag of floss and your threaded needle through the loop you just formed (see middle picture).  Holding the 1" tag of floss firm, gently pull your needle so that the loop becomes a knot securing your fringe (see third picture), and then clip.  Repeat until fringe has been added to both short ends of your project.

An easier way to make fringe, is to find a piece of ecru/off-white cloth at the fabric store that frays nicely. Simply cut the fabric into strips, glue to the back of the short ends of your completed carpet with Tacky Glue,  fray the fabric, and voila! easy fringe.

Ta Da!  A beautiful handmade miniature oriental carpet for you to display in your dollhouse or room setting, or to frame and decorate your home!