PUERTO ESCONDIDO
Puerto Escondido is one of the top ten surfing locations in the world. In November, there is an international surfing championship that draws people from all over the world.
LOCATION:
Puerto Escondido is located 368 km (230 MI) southeast of Acapulco, 310 km (192 MI) south of Oaxaca City, and 120 km (75 MI) northwest of Huatulco.
HISTORY:
Puerto Escondido was founded as a coffee-shipping port in the 1920’s. After the construction of the coastal highway in 1960, it was connected to other coastal towns. Soon, tourists discovered the low prices and beaches. Development of hotels, restaurants, bars, and clubs began. The port activity diminished as coffee shipments began going by truck instead of boat. Puerto Escondido became a surfer’s haven, attracting young surfers from all over the world. A process of gentrification now seems to be underway.
WEATHER:
Puerto Escondido has basically two seasons; the summer and wet season, and the winter and dry season. Year round daily high temperatures are in the high twenties, low thirties Celsius or around 82-90 Fahrenheit. Average humidity is decidedly higher in summer (May to September) than winter. Early morning and late evening can get chilly enough to require a light sweater.
NIGHTLIFE:
Live jazz, discos, bars and clubs are all part of this surfer’s paradise. Several nightspots feature live local bands on a certain day of the week. Many restaurants offer sunset happy hours. If partying is not your style head to the library where you can play chess or backgammon, buy books, participate in a Spanish class, or have a coffee from the bar. The Surf Papaya restaurant has an upstairs art gallery and has occasional children theater shows.
SHOPPING:
Many shops and stores cater to tourists, selling hats, T-shirts, postcards, clothing and art. Casa di Bambole sells top end jewelery, clothing and bags from Chiapas and Guatemala. During the high season stores are generally open all day but during the low season they tend to close from 2 pm to 5 pm. Shops on the Adoquin (Pedestrian Mall) on Avenida Perez Gasga carry a wide variety of tourist goods. A few of the hotels have gift shops, boutiques or souvenir stores inside. Shopping hours are generally from 9am to 8pm in the high season and from 10am to 2 or 5pm in the low season. There are several small markets, department stores and pharmacies around town where you purchase daily essential items. 1000 Hamacas, hammocks, carries a large collection of hammocks in various styles and colors. The Hotel Santa Fe hosts a mini-bazaar where you can find Oaxacan embroidered clothes, religious artifacts, exquisite antiques, as well as jewelry.
CUISINE:
With such a coastal location, it’s no surprise that the local cuisine focuses on seafood. There are several locations where you will find vegetarian, Italian, and of course traditional Mexican dishes.
WHERE TO EAT:
Seafood is abundant in the restaurants of Puerto Escondido, although there are several eateries that serve international and Mexican dishes. You will find several cafes, snack stands and ice cream shops located around town. For a relaxing yet elegant meal, head to the Santa Fe restaurant where you get a free sunset view with your meals. You can dine on chiles rellenos, shrimp, grilled fish, salad as well as an assortment of vegetarian dishes. La Perla offers excellent seafood dishes, such as octopus, seafood cocktails, and fish, for excellent prices. For freshly baked pastries, whole grain breads, and goodies head to Carmen’s Cafecito and La Patisserie. You can also get sandwiches, fruit salad as well as granola and yogurt for breakfast.
A few of our more favourite Restaurants:
La Salsa Excellent seafood, very reasonable prices, run by very friendly family; very convenient location just north of the condo at corner of 3a Poniente and Camino a Puerto Angelito
Cafecito Best breakfast in town, two locations; on Playa Zicatela and on Rinconada.
Café Tio Excellent shrimp cocktails – large enough for main course; on Zicatela
Hotel Santa Fee Continental; touted as the premier eating place in Puerto
Junta al Mar Upscale – seafood, recommended; west end of Adoquin (Pedestrian Mall)
La Perla Seafood, excellent prices; in town on 3a Poniente, across from Ahorrara
La Torre Beef, reasonable and recommended; At west end of Rinconada in Bacocho
Maria’s Pasta & Seafood; upscale yet good value; in Hotel Flor de Maria
Nautilus Upscale, seafood; on Perez Gasga
Palapa Restaurants on Playa Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito: lunch, very informal
Split Coconut Excellent ribs, burgers, reasonable; in Hotel Jardin Real in Bacocho
TIPPING: It is expected that you tip for good service and 10% still appears to be the norm. Remember that everyone works for a very little wage each day so if the service deserves more, please extend your generousity.
SERVICES:
Banks: There are many ATMs in Puerto with access to all major systems that link to North American and European banks. There are several money exchange desks that are open from 9 am until 10 pm. Banks are generally open from 9 am until 3 pm. You may experience a long wait in the afternoon.
Internet: There are many Internet cafes around town. The average price for one hour of internet use is from 10 to 20 pesos. In town and on Rinconada tends to be cheaper than on Zicatella and on Perez Gasga.
Telephones: are available through phone shops in town or at various pay phone locations. Most all pay phones work on a "phone card" which you can purchase at many locations.
Transportation: Most beaches, restaurants, and hotels are within walking distance. Taxis are inexpensive and can be hired by hour or day. A shuttle bus runs to the beaches further out approximately every half an hour. Town buses run loops on several routes around town and maybe boarded at stops for 3 pesos. Cars, bikes and mopeds are available for rent from several locations. You can also hire a boat to take you to the surrounding beaches.
Laundry: The condo has a washer/dryer. If you are so inclined, the maids that service the condo will do your laundry for a fair price. They will take it away and return with the cleaned laundry the next time they service the condo.
Food Shopping: The Ahorara (supermarket) on 3a Poniente and 4 Norte has a wide variety of foods and supplies. For fresh vegetables and fruits, try the Mercado.The best market days are Wednesdays and Saturdays. On these 2 days the local farmers bring in fresh produce and you can stock up for the next 2 or 3 days. Fruits and Vegetables: fabulous and the varieties change for various times of year. Do make sure though that you take care of good hygiene. Fruits should be peeled or properly cleaned before eating. Vegetables and unpeeled fruit should be washed in a cleaning solution like bleach, iodine or other appropriate product for this purpose. We enjoy salads and all the vegetables and, because we are careful, we have never had a problem
Medical Services: There is a hospital in Puerto Escondido and English speaking doctors. On the few occasions that we needed medical attention, the quality of care has been excellent. Plus there are many drug stores that carry most of the common medications. There is a strong English speaking support network for North American travellers that can be called upon in any emergency. The Association is called The International Friends of Puerto Escondido (IFOPE).
Library: IFOPE also maintains a library with predominantly English language books (novels). We suggest you bring your own books, but if in a bind for more reading material... The library is on Rinconada, just before you get to Cafecito.
SURROUNDING AREA:
Puerto Angel: Located 50 miles southeast of Puerto Escondido, Puerto Angel is a tiny fishing port. With its budget hotels and good restaurants, this town is popular with backpackers. The beaches and waters are perfect for swimming, fishing, surfing, and snorkeling.
Huatulco: Located 111 km (69 MI) east of Puerto Escondido, Huatulco 36 beaches attract tourists from all over the world.
Turtle Museum: In 1991, the Mexican government created a project for preservation and study of turtles. There are several different species of marine turtles here as well as freshwater and land turtles.
For further information on day tripping and things to do see my page on that subject.
WHAT TO DO:
Beaches: At Playa Principal you will find boats for fishing and tours. There are restaurants and beach chairs at all the beaches. Zicatela Beach, with large and strong waves, is popular with experienced surfers. It is not safe to swim here. Playa Manzanillo, Playa Bacocho, Playa Carizalillo and Playa Puerto Angelito are all excellent for swimming and snorkeling. Several locals cook food right on the beach.
Sportfishing: With mahi-mahi, mackerel, snapper, tuna, snook, and sea bass swimming in the waters of Puerto Escondido, fishing is a popular and relaxing activity. Several companies can arrange a boat, gear, and tackle for US$30 per hour.
Tours: There are many companies that will arrange tours and trips for you. Several have guides to take you on an Eco-tour to visit the local flora, fauna, wildlife, lagoons, and beaches.
Studying Spanish: Instituto de Lenguajes Puerto Escondido offers one on one or small group lessons.
River Rafting: Big Jim’s River Trip can arrange a river ride down the Colotepec River.
Water Activities: There are several locations that are good for scuba diving and snorkeling, especially at Playa Carizalillo and Playa Manzanillo. Local companies can arrange a trip or take you on a guided tour. You can rent boogie boards and surfboards from various shops.
Massage Services: Temazcalli offers herbal steam baths and different types of massages.
Electricity: Is 110 volts and will run any North American appliance.
Safety: We have found Puerto Escondido and the State of Oaxaca to be a very friendly and safe place to stay and travel in. As is prudent when one travels anywhere, please do not wear or display expensive items of any kind. Dogs can be a bother at times but their bark is usually worse than their bite.